Saturday 16 June 2007

The Good Life

Telc, a small town halfway between Praha and Brno invites the tour buses for a few hours to view its perfect square and heavily influenced renaissance style architecture. On first viewing, it appears more like a set from a wild west film, with facades and shop fronts, which stand out with their colours of a different era and formal shaped friezes. The square is also quite long, so a shoot out at dawn wouldn’t stretch the imagination. For me though, the appeal was to cycle around the well marked trails in the Moravian countryside. I am starting to think that there must be a Czech Law which enforces the conversion of orchards into campsites. Certainly makes a summer stay more pleasant, with fresh fruit there for the taking.
Finally managed to get an authentic sense of the friendliness of the people. Despite arriving at the shop during its closed period, the owner still insisted on opening up with a warmth and welcome. When we asked for bread we were met with a sad face, and then she rushed into her kitchen and handed us a half eaten loaf from her own larder. Though very touched by this gesture, we couldn’t take the loaf. Lunch was revised and amended to deal with the loss of bread. We did a fine cycle combined with a grand walk up an 836m small hill! We declared war on the world of flies. The Horseflies out here look different and are larger, even more vicious and unfriendly.
We swapped bikes, for a trial, which is becoming more permanent. Essentially my bike has more gears and I prefer the challenge of cycling up 15% slopes in 12th gear than L. Yes, no more bike walking for me. Alas, I missed my suspension and brakes, when I went flying over a trailhead and down a very rocky downhill, still it was good to get the shot of adrenaline which helped me survive.
Find myself continuously marvelling at the amount of old Skodas and Ladas holding their own on the roads. They have that classic car shape as drawn by young boys, with a solid simple design and probably simple enough mechanics as well. Makes you wonder about the continuous drive of the market to recreate the motorcar. We could probably learn a few things from communism regarding waste. I am finding myself more and more wanting to understand the workings of machines. Perhaps a course will be booked on my return. Timber works are widespread, as are allotment sized vegetable gardens. Sampled some of the local funghi – ‘Chicken of the Forest’ – it looks highly toxic and doesn’t taste of anything. Though the foraging books recommend cooking it in a casserole and I cooked it in an omelette.
Our stay finished with me failing to tame some wild kittens and the purchase of some locally made wine and honey -: solid white honey which tastes divine and cheap as chips.
On the face of it, all seems quite an attractive way of life. Hmm, how to own a campsite, orchard, wild kittens, beehives and vineyard? Perhaps Felicity will drop by too.

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