Day 5 saw us heading into the Czech Republic and our first proper border crossing. Having managed to annoy the policemen on 2 accounts – not turning off our engine and not having our headlights on – he took a long hard look at our passports before allowing us through. The first settlement we came to was Hrensko, described in the Lonely Planet as “a cute village of pointy-gabled houses” however, they forgot to mention the rows and rows of tacky souvenir stalls which line the street in front of above mentioned houses. This pretty much totally obscures the picturesque view and certainly denies the village any cuteness. Fortunately this was not our final destination and so after a very brief stop to purchase a hiking map we turned off the main road and headed into the hills.
Our plan was to stay at a camp site in Mezni Louka, which we found with relative ease. What took a little longer to work out was that it was shut until the end of May. The tell-tale signs of desertion should perhaps have given it away, but the equally obvious sign informing new arrivals the reception closed over lunch time, led us into a false sense of security that someone would indeed return shortly to let us in. 45 minutes later, armed with Sophie’s last minute borrowed German dictionary, we were able to establish the reality of the situation. With our new map we then located another campsite nearby and started off again. A large ‘OPEN’ sign greeted us this time, but unfortunately that was all that greeted us. With no-one to be found and no sign of any other campers, we were forced to head for campsite number 3.
We finally located signs of life just outside the village of Jetrichovice in what turned out to be the best of the 3 sites. In pigeon German on both sides we booked ourselves in for little more than £5 a night including electric hook-up. Then as we rolled across to our stop the first spots of rain began to fall, and there began a tremendous thunderstorm that circled our position for the next 12 hours or so.
In a brief brighter let-up we took a turn around the small site and discovered we were surrounded by large sandstone rock formations and dense pine forests.
Setting up the electricity was not quite as straight forward this time. With ‘no earth’ (and therefore no power) being reported on our polarity tester, a friendly neighbour came to our assistance. With various testing equipment, beyond the realms of our own knowledge, he informed us that Napoleon had got his wires crossed and advised us to try re-wiring him! Our inevitable hesitancy brought on the alternative suggestion of just running off his adaptor which we gratefully accepted. [We were also pleased to find that we had no trouble hooking up in Prague, albeit with the plug upside down – to any electricians reading this we would value you opinion, but so far it seems to be working].
The next day was one of cycling, walking and being punted. There was a nice sounding circular walk starting in Hrensko which we were able to pick up half way round in Mezni Louka. The 15km uphill cycle (push bike up hill) to Mezni Louka was not my favourite part of the day, but I did enjoy the return journey (except for the fading light bit). The walk was divided into 2 distinct sections, with very impressive clear markings along the whole route. After a few km descent into a dark pine forest, with the now familiar sheer rock faces along each side of the narrow valley we came to the rive Strzi. Following walkways rather precariously clinging to the rocks along the river’s edge we eventually came to an apparently impassable section where the only way through the deep gorge is by boat. The cynic in me also noted the clever opportunity to charge tourists for the pleasure of passing. Either way, being low season, after a rather long wait just in case there were any other walkers needing their pockets relieved of some loose change, we were exclusively punted down the river.
Some more river side walking took us past a man with a shed demanding a second payment (reason slightly unclear) and still further on brought us to another impassable section and another boat trip. Upon reaching the throngs of Hrensko we (and our bellies) were pleased to find a local café still serving food. After a few minutes gazing at the incomprehensible menu and a sense this was going to be rather like a lucky dip, a waitress noticed our phrase book and brought us menus translated into some form of English. It’s amazing how much more appetising food sounds when you know what it is! We both opted to try some of the local cuisine (£2 each) and were quite satisfied with our respective meat dishes served with bread like dumplings and creamed spinach.
A little too full of carbohydrates we then headed back up into the hills on a seemingly never ending ascent up to Pravcicka Brana, reputedly one of the largest natural arches in Europe. A magnificent sight, yes, but again you pay for the privilege (what a cheap skate misery I sound!). Now 6pm we were rather against the clock so the last section of the walk was completed in a steadily determined style. Mostly through closely wooded and very steep paths. The heavily eroded sandstone rock faces towered above us to often beyond where the eye could see, and the dark valley floor somewhere below our feet, again obscured from view most of the time. The sandy path wound round the rock formations covering a distance at least 3 times that which the crow would fly. We eventually arrived back in Mezni Louka and collected our bikes.
Sausages (again – think we’re turning into sausages) rounded off a tiring but enjoyable day, as we made plans to head down towards the capital.
Our plan was to stay at a camp site in Mezni Louka, which we found with relative ease. What took a little longer to work out was that it was shut until the end of May. The tell-tale signs of desertion should perhaps have given it away, but the equally obvious sign informing new arrivals the reception closed over lunch time, led us into a false sense of security that someone would indeed return shortly to let us in. 45 minutes later, armed with Sophie’s last minute borrowed German dictionary, we were able to establish the reality of the situation. With our new map we then located another campsite nearby and started off again. A large ‘OPEN’ sign greeted us this time, but unfortunately that was all that greeted us. With no-one to be found and no sign of any other campers, we were forced to head for campsite number 3.
We finally located signs of life just outside the village of Jetrichovice in what turned out to be the best of the 3 sites. In pigeon German on both sides we booked ourselves in for little more than £5 a night including electric hook-up. Then as we rolled across to our stop the first spots of rain began to fall, and there began a tremendous thunderstorm that circled our position for the next 12 hours or so.
In a brief brighter let-up we took a turn around the small site and discovered we were surrounded by large sandstone rock formations and dense pine forests.
Setting up the electricity was not quite as straight forward this time. With ‘no earth’ (and therefore no power) being reported on our polarity tester, a friendly neighbour came to our assistance. With various testing equipment, beyond the realms of our own knowledge, he informed us that Napoleon had got his wires crossed and advised us to try re-wiring him! Our inevitable hesitancy brought on the alternative suggestion of just running off his adaptor which we gratefully accepted. [We were also pleased to find that we had no trouble hooking up in Prague, albeit with the plug upside down – to any electricians reading this we would value you opinion, but so far it seems to be working].
The next day was one of cycling, walking and being punted. There was a nice sounding circular walk starting in Hrensko which we were able to pick up half way round in Mezni Louka. The 15km uphill cycle (push bike up hill) to Mezni Louka was not my favourite part of the day, but I did enjoy the return journey (except for the fading light bit). The walk was divided into 2 distinct sections, with very impressive clear markings along the whole route. After a few km descent into a dark pine forest, with the now familiar sheer rock faces along each side of the narrow valley we came to the rive Strzi. Following walkways rather precariously clinging to the rocks along the river’s edge we eventually came to an apparently impassable section where the only way through the deep gorge is by boat. The cynic in me also noted the clever opportunity to charge tourists for the pleasure of passing. Either way, being low season, after a rather long wait just in case there were any other walkers needing their pockets relieved of some loose change, we were exclusively punted down the river.
Some more river side walking took us past a man with a shed demanding a second payment (reason slightly unclear) and still further on brought us to another impassable section and another boat trip. Upon reaching the throngs of Hrensko we (and our bellies) were pleased to find a local café still serving food. After a few minutes gazing at the incomprehensible menu and a sense this was going to be rather like a lucky dip, a waitress noticed our phrase book and brought us menus translated into some form of English. It’s amazing how much more appetising food sounds when you know what it is! We both opted to try some of the local cuisine (£2 each) and were quite satisfied with our respective meat dishes served with bread like dumplings and creamed spinach.
A little too full of carbohydrates we then headed back up into the hills on a seemingly never ending ascent up to Pravcicka Brana, reputedly one of the largest natural arches in Europe. A magnificent sight, yes, but again you pay for the privilege (what a cheap skate misery I sound!). Now 6pm we were rather against the clock so the last section of the walk was completed in a steadily determined style. Mostly through closely wooded and very steep paths. The heavily eroded sandstone rock faces towered above us to often beyond where the eye could see, and the dark valley floor somewhere below our feet, again obscured from view most of the time. The sandy path wound round the rock formations covering a distance at least 3 times that which the crow would fly. We eventually arrived back in Mezni Louka and collected our bikes.
Sausages (again – think we’re turning into sausages) rounded off a tiring but enjoyable day, as we made plans to head down towards the capital.
1 comment:
Where are you now?
mmmmm
sausages.......oh now I am hungry!
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